Week ending Nov 26, 2015 Natchez Trace Tupelo, Vicksburg, Natchez

We only had Friday to spend in the Tupelo area so we had to ensure that we saw the things that were most important to us.  Our direction of travel from Tupelo is south, so we decided to do a day drive along the Natchez Trace Parkway northward to the Tennessee River in northwest Alabama.
The Trace runs from Natchez on the Mississippi River to Nashville, Tennessee.  It was the return route for American flat-boat commerce between the territories of the upper and lower Ohio, Tennessee, and Cumberland River valleys. The Americans would construct flat-boats, load their commerce therein, and drift upon those rivers, one-way south-southwestward all the way to New Orleans, Louisiana. They would then sell their goods (including the salvageable logs of the flat-boats), and return home via the Trace (for the middle section of their return trip), to as far away as Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.

 We drove to Colbert's Ferry, the site of Chickasaw George Colbert's stand and ferry. The ferry crossed the Tennessee River, but is now replaced by a mile long bridge.

We walked up to Freedom Hill overlook, a view now obscured by trees. Bear Creek Mound, Cave Spring, a spot believed to be a water source for farmers of the Chickasaw nation. We stopped at Tishomingo State Park to discover the sites although long enough are not wide enough for us, nor is there any hope of a satellite signal. We crossed over the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway/James L. Witten Bridge, which created a navigable route between the Tennessee river and the Gulf of Mexico.The eight burial mounds at Pharr mounds are thought to be between 1800 and 2000 years old.  It was a bit strange to see the hay bales on the site, but if they don't mow the area, the trees would reclaim it.

There are numerous spots along the drive that have great examples of the original trace. When we arrived back in Tupelo we visited site of the Civil War Battle of Tupelo. Our final point of interest was the birthplace of Elvis.

Elvis' Birthplace

Saturday we packed up early and headed south along the trace. The drive is great as all the viewpoints are RV friendly (unless otherwise marked).  We stopped at numerous viewpoints, including a Chickasaw village site, which showed the difference between the winter and summer houses, a plaque for Hernando de Soto, who was in the area in 1539, another mound site,  along the way and finally French Camp, so named because a French Canadian married a Chickasaw and settled there. The coffee was mediocre at best, but wet.  Cypress Swamp was a 20 minute walk through  water tupelo/cypress swamp. Although they mentioned the possibility of resident alligators, none where spotted. Mid afternoon we arrived at Timber Lake Campground on Ross Barnett Reservoir. In order to insure we could get a satellite signal they assigned us a reserved site. One of the advantages of traveling slightly off season.

 Ross Barnett Reservoir

Sunday morning we stopped at IHOP for breakfast before spending the morning at Vicksburg National Military Park, about 40 miles west of the campground, on the Mississippi. The Union Army had basically isolated Vicksburg by controlling the river and the interior of the area, while the Confederate Army controlled the forts on the bluffs above the river, with 172 cannon guarding all of the land approaches. By May 18, 1863, Gen. Grant had the fortress surrounded, but many attempts were made by the Union forces to capture it.    There as a siege that lasted for 46 days before the fort was surrendered.  The military park is a drive past memorials, with the names of the men who were there, which are placed where the various units of both armies were located during the siege, showing cannon placements facing one another.  

Vicksburg National Cemetary

We arrived back at the trailer in time to watch the final Nascar race of the season.


Monday morning we left Timber Lake campground. Our plan was to complete the Natchez trace. We stopped at numerous sites along the way, one a great illustration of how the number of people walking the Trace wore a deep track through the forest.

Sunken Trace

Our stops coincided with a couple, in a  motorhome, from Vermont. We finally arrived  at Riverview RV park in Vidalia, Louisiana. As John was aligning the satellite dish the lady from Vermont stopped by. They are stopping here overnight.

Tuesday we took the day off. Slept in, went for a walk along the river. There is a beautiful sidewalk that goes from the campground a couple of miles north along the river. We noticed a Christmas display along the way sponsored by numerous business in the area. After dark you can drive along the route, donations are appreciated to support an unnamed charity. Our walk took us to the Louisiana Welcome Center.  We were able to pick up a lot of information especially regarding New Orleans.

Wednesday we did a tour of Port Gibson, known as 'the city too pretty to burn' during the Civil War.  On the way, we saw a display put up by the local Baptists, documenting the history of Baptists in Mississippi state.  We did a walk around the downtown area, amazed at the number of churches, more than one that were Baptist churches, that a town with only 1800 people can support.

Presbyterian Church

 There was a nice mural illustrating the Port Gibson boycott.

We stopped in at the Cultural Crossroads and watched some women quilting, all by hand. The quilts were quite spectacular.

We then went to Windsor Ruins. Windsor was a mansion built by Smith Coffee Daniel II. He only lived a few weeks after the completion.  During the war between the States Windsor was used as an observation post by the Confederate army and then as a hospital by the Union army. In 1890 a guest dropped a cigarette and the mansion was destroyed.

We then stopped at Mount Locust,a restored inn on the Natchez Trace.

Mount Locust Inn

Mount Locust spinning wheel

Our final stop for the day was Emerald Mound an eight acre ceremonial mound, unlike the other mounds which were only burial mounds.  There were 50 steps to the top of the high point.

Emerald Mound

Thursday being Thanksgiving we realized downtown would be quiet, a perfect day to do the Natchez downtown walking tour. The self guided walking tour included numerous antebellum houses homes, dating from the early 1700's.  A lot of the older mansions have been converted into Bed and Breakfasts, so have been well cared for. Natchez has a very active historical society and they put a  lot of  effort into assuring these historic homes are well-preserved.

It is interesting to notice the different styles of architecture from Kings Tavern, the first building in Natchez, to the townhouses built by planters later on.

Kings Tavern

Magnolia Hall