Thursday 27 December 2018

Week ending Dec 27, 2018 Tucson

We had a fairly quiet, although busy week.
  
We spent most of the week cleaning up the outside of the trailer, and cooking some of the food for an enjoyable Christmas breakfast and dinner with Rupert, Helen and Keri.  

On Saturday, we did make an attempt to find a hiking trail up Miller Creek on the east side of Saguaro NP.  However, we must need to figure out how to enter latitude and longitude co-ordinates into the new GPS since it took us to a spot that turned out to be about 3 miles south of the trailhead.  We found a place to pull off the narrow gravel Mescal Road / Happy Valley Road, which had crossed 3 or 4 streams.  We followed a faint trail for a few hundred yards before concluding this wasn't our route.  After returning to the road we walked north for a while before returning to the truck to take out our camp chairs to have lunch in the sun.   This area is open range, but instead of seeing cattle on the road, we saw 3 horses on the way back.
 
On Thursday, we looked up another trail, as it had rained off and on for the last few days, and we weren't keen to see if the streams we had crossed were deeper.  We chose Tanque Verde Falls trail.  We downloaded the GPS route for the trail from www.hikingproject.com.  This trail is different than most of our trails in the area.  On the way to the trailhead, we crossed Tanque Verde Wash at about 800 m elevation.  Then we drove west, and climbed up Reddington Rd, to a water rutted parking lot at the the trailhead at about 950 m. 
 Tanque Verde Wash
From there, we went down the hill on switchbacks to the wash at 850 m.  Lots of desert plants along the way.
purple staghorn cholla

The trail then works it way gradually up the wash, past some pools
 
 until we got to a nice little falls,
 
that we couldn't get past without scrambling over boulders.  The trail does go about a sixth of mile past this to the falls that are its destination.  We encountered lots of people on the trail.  School is out, so there were a few groups of over half a dozen people.

By the time we got back to the trailhead, the clouds were starting to gather over what we think is Mica Mountain.  
 

Thursday 20 December 2018

Week ending Dec 20, 2018 Huachuca City, AZ

Friday and Saturday we took it easy, doing a walk around the park and watched the Grand Slam of Curling from Newfoundland.  We have also been watching three or four little rabbits that seem to live under the trailer next door. 

Sunday we tried to start the truck to go into Sierra Vista for breakfast.  It wouldn't start, so we put the battery charger on, and watched more curling.  Since we couldn't go for groceries, Joan baked some bread and cookies.

Monday, we called Lawley Motors Chev in Sierra Vista, and arranged to get the starting issue fixed.  When we still couldn't start the truck we called a tow company to take the truck and us into the dealer.  We went for lunch, walked to visitor info for some info on hiking areas, and did some shopping while the truck was fixed.  They found water in the fuel sensor, replaced another glow plug, and a brake light switch.  The brake light switch was causing our cruise control to work intermittently.  Apparently the cruise is programmed not to work if the brake light switch isn't working.  We were pleased that we were able to get this all done by 3 PM.    Our truck and trailer repairs this month added up, but hopefully this fixes the main issues for a while.  When we got back to the trailer, we saw a quail behind the trailer, helping the park live up to its name.

It was nice to be able to go for a hike on Tuesday.  We drove south through Sierra Vista to Coronado National Memorial, almost on the Mexican border.  This makes it as good location for the Memorial to Coronado's expedition from Mexico City to a location as far north as Kansas.  The Memorial has an excellent display on the expedition.  The expedition of 1500 people left in 1540 searching for the fabled Seven Cities of Gold.   They brought over 5500 sheep, cattle and horses.  Over two years, they covered more than 5500 miles. 
Coronado Expedition Map
About a quarter of a mile from the Visitor Center is the trailhead for the Cave Trail, a 1 mile return route with a 500 ft elevation gain that is rated as moderate.   Two women headed up the trail shortly before we got to the trailhead.  A good part of the trail is rock staircase, which of course is not the standard 7" rise for house stairs.  
The two women, who were mother and 20 something daughter were at the cave mouth when we arrived.  This worked out well as the daughter wanted someone to go down into the cave with her.   We had brought a small LED flashlight with us, since Joan has it in her fanny pack, but we wondered if they knew how to use the flashlight feature on our cell phone.   Joan had seen the app somewhere on our Verizon phone, but we couldn't find it.  The mother would not go into the cave as she had broken her leg on a hike a few years ago, and was being cautious.  Joan stayed with her at the mouth of the cave while John and the daughter went into the cave.   She had light from her Iphone, so we had two lights.  The first part of the cave slanted downward at a steep angle, with a few large 'steps' near the entrance.   It was well lit from the light at the entrance.  Once we got down about 50 feet (est), we got to the floor of the cave.   The floor goes about 600 feet into the cave, so we were glad to have a couple of lights.   They enabled us to get a few badly lit pictures.   Legend has it that Geronomo hid out in this cave.
Returning down the trail, we could see a section of fence along the border with Mexico.
Border Fence running across the valley
On the way back, near the trailhead, we encountered a couple coming up who had distinct accents.  They are a couple from the UK and Lithuania, who are creating web content of their travels .  We had a long chat about how they are living in their 25 foot 4 season trailer on their journey.

On Wednesday we drove up Miller Canyon to do about 1.5 miles of the Miller Canyon trail.  We are doing short hikes while we get back in shape for elevation gains.  The trailhead parking is just before a driveway to a private area that only allows residents, guests, and customers who want to buy eggs.   We had a bit of trouble finding the trail head because the obvious information boards turned out to be on the opposite side of the parking lot from the trail direction sign.  After wandering around for a few hundred yards, disturbing what turned out to be half a dozen hounds in the yard above the parking area we returned to the parking and found the trailhead sign.  The trail works its way up and around the private clearing that has about 5 residences in it, before meeting up with the stream bed coming down the canyon.  When we got to the stream bed we could hear water gurgling along, but couldn't see any surface water.  It turned out to be running through a pipe that goes down the canyon.
water supply pipe
The trail is a bit scrambly stuff, as water seems to run along a good chunk of it, even before a section that crosses and follows the stream bed.   We didn't see much on the way up, but on the way down, when it was a bit warmer, we saw some yellow-breasted birds flitting around,  a small deer that got caught out on the trail before it saw us coming,


a red-breasted pilated bird foraging on the ground, and a grey squirrel.
grey squirrel
 It was strange to see the occasional cactus in this high elevation forest.

We were surprised to see a Border Patrol truck at the trailhead when we returned.   Wonder what they were looking for.

On Thursday, we returned to Pima County Fairgrounds, where we stayed over Christmas last year, for a 3 week stay.

Thursday 13 December 2018

Week ending Dec 13, 2018 Deridder, LA to Huachuca City, AZ

Friday morning, we went for a walk to downtown Deridder to take pictures of the Beauregard County Courthouse, and the Gothic Jail, in a bit of drizzle, that eventually got heavy enough that when we got back to the hotel we used the hair dryer in the hotel room for the first time.
Beauregard Parish Courthouse

Gothic Jail

Then we headed across the Sabine River at the Texas state line to Jasper, to pick up some groceries.  From Jasper, we headed through the pine forests of east Texas to Lufkin.  Our stop there was the Naranjo Museum of Natural History .  It's attraction is the world's largest moon rock on public display. The moon rock was collected by the NASA astronauts of Apollo 18, and it was released by NASA to be indefinitely on display in this small city (35000) in Texas.
Largest Moon Rock
The museum itself cost $15 for the two of us, but it is well worth it.  The museum was created when a local collector was told by his wife to get all of his junk out of the house.  The collection covers a lot of the geological eras with extensive fossils, replicas of dinosaurs, mammoth, cave bear, etc collections of artifacts from human history from ancient times, through displays of the space shuttle and Mars Rover.   On our way back through town, we tried to get a picture of the Roadrunner statue  on Angelina College's campus but it is difficult to do from a freeway.  

As we were driving to our next stop, we got notified of a voicemail being left.  We didn't have the password to our voicemail, so we stopped when we could, and phoned to see if it was Hanner RV, where we left the trailer.  They had told us they should get to our trailer on Tuesday, 3 days ago.  It wasn't them who had called, but we found out they hadn't had time to look at our trailer yet, almost 4 weeks after we left it.  We told them that we would be picking it up on Saturday.  

Our next stop was in Crockett, to see Lightnin' Hopkins statue .  He was a country blues musician and sing-songwriter who was born 30 miles away.  We had some fun getting to this location too.  It turned out that our GPS wasn't aware that the street we were on became one-way, the wrong way, about a block before our turn.  Fortunately, the locals must expect people going the wrong way down this street, and gave us room to get going the correct way at the next intersection . 
Sam Lightnin' Hopkins

From there we headed over to I-45 (between Houston and Dallas), and then toward Waco to our hotel in Groesbeck.  When we checked in, we found out it was the hotel who left the voicemail to let us know that the elevator was out of order, in case that was an issue for us.  She figured it would have gone to voicemail without ringing the phone because we were in an area without cell service when she called .

Interestingly, about an hour after we arrived, Hanner RV called us to say they had looked at the trailer, and gave us estimates on what needed to be done.  They said that they could fix the slide-out not running in properly by the end of the day, but that they needed to order parts to replace the black water valve, and wouldn't be able to do it until Monday.   We told them to go ahead with the slide-out gear, and we would talk about whether we would get them to do the sewer valve on Monday.   Funny how when we told them we were going to pick up the trailer on Saturday, they found time to figure out what the trailer problems were, and then could do the biggest issue, the slide-out, the same day.

On Saturday, we got on the road once it was light, stopping just a couple of times along the way, to get coffee, then for lunch.  We arrived at Hanner about 12:30.  It was snowing a bit.  Two Arctic Fox RVs had just been delivered, covered in snow, on the way here from Lubbock.They had replaced the slide-out motor and some of the gearing.   Only US$1128.  In addition, they charged us $70 to give us an estimate on fixing the gap on the slideout, and $70 to estimate replacing the black water sewer valve.   Good to have the slide-out fixed.  Hopefully this fix lasts longer than the couple of adjustments we had done to it in Calgary.      

We got setup in Abilene RV Park, where we stayed before our Washington trip.  They were kind enough to give us credit for the day we didn't use when we paid for a week here in November.    Supposed to go down to 27F tonight, and there is snow on the ground in the RV park.
slush in Abilene RV Park

Sunday morning, we got hooked up, headed to Walmart in Abilene to stock up on groceries and wine.  We were surprised we couldn't buy wine at Walmart until after noon, so we  stopped in Big Springs after lunch.  They did not have our merlot, so we settled on a cabernet.   From there we drove through the Permian Basin oil area, of Midland and Odessa.  Almost continuous rows of RV parks in areas along the highway.   Not quite as full as we expected, since our neighbour in Abilene a month ago was commuting here to work.  Oil service companies continuously along the way for the  We carried on 18 miles past Odessa to Monahan Sandhills State Park.  It is a neat little area, parked in the middle of sand dunes.  People come here to slide down the sand dunes on discs. Unfortunately our Verizon signal wasn't strong enough here for 4G, so no internet hotspot for our computers.  Couldn't get a satellite signal, but that may have been because we squeezed the nose of the satellite between the truck and the trailer backing out of an awkward service station.  We'll see how that goes when we get further down the road.

Monday we walked the 1.5 mi back up to the visitor center to do the interpretive walk.  We popped into the center to warm up (26F overnight).  The warden there explained the hydrodynamics of the sand dunes.  These dunes were created from rivers of water running off the glaciers as they retreated from New Mexico.  The dunes are 100 miles north to south and about 40 miles wide here, and 100 miles wide further north in New Mexico.  The sand acts like a sponge, holding any water that falls. He pointed out a line of harvard oaks.  These oaks only grow to be about 10 inches high, on the tops of the dunes, which stabilizes the dunes.  
harvard oaks along the top of a dune
sunrise over the dunes
On Tuesday we drove through El Paso to Las Cruces, New Mexico.  We have driven by Las Cruces  twice without stopping, after we toured Texas, and after we came down the Mississippi.  This time we decided to stay an extra night.


Mid-morning on Wednesday, we drove out to Dripping Springs Natural Area to do a 3.5 mile return hike to Dripping Springs.
Organ Mountains
A resort was built here about 17 miles from Las Cruces by Major Eugene Van Patten, a nephew of Butterfield, of stageline fame.  In 1915 after financial difficulties, Van Patten sold the resort to Dr Nathan Boyd, who built a tuberculosis sanitarium near the resort. 
Boyd's Sanitarium
 Dripping Springs
livery stable fence
On Thursday, we headed west to Arizona.  Our first stop along the way was a rest area which had a sign marking Cooke's Wagon Road.   Lt Col Philip Cooke, leading the Mormon Battalion blazed a wagon trail from New Mexico to the west coast during the Mexican War.  After fueling up in Lordsburg NM, we stopped at Kranberry's Chatterbox restaurant.  They had a similar burger to Red Robin's bonzai burger, but it wasn't as good.  Must be the sauce that makes the difference.  Fortunately, they had a soup and salad bar for Joan, with a bonus being a 1-trip option.

We parked for a week in Quail Ridge RV Park at the intersection of highways 90 and 82 south of Benson.   We stayed here a couple of years ago, and figure there is more hiking in the area that we haven't done yet. Supposed to be just below freezing in the morning, but temperatures improve for the rest of the week.



Thursday 6 December 2018

Week ending Dec 6, 2018 St Augustine, FL to Deridder, LA

Friday morning at breakfast we had a nice chat with a couple from Lynden, Washington, just south of Langley, BC.    About 10 AM, we walked over to the beach, and waded along the edge of the ocean north to St. Augustine Beach Pier. We saw an osprey with a fish in its talons heading for its perch. Lots of shorebirds.
Terns
We thought about having lunch on the pier, but like a lot of places here, the pier is private.  $2 each to go out on it so we sat on the seawall to eat.  Immediately about 5 birds started looking for handouts.  Then we walked back along the road going by our hotel.
St. Augustine Beach Pier

On the way back to the hotel we saw a hawk perched on a power line looking for lunch.
Hawk
On Saturday we drove west in the rain toward Tallahassee.  Really pouring in Lake City, then it would ease off considerably.  We stopped at Busy Bee Travel stop along the way. It is similar to Buc-ee's, our favourite Texas gas stops. We picked up coffee, selecting a dark roast and a pecan, from several flavors available,  and Bee-licious White Cheddar Ranch Popcorn, also from several flavors.  It lived up to its name.  A while later we crossed the Suwanee River, famous in the Stephen Foster song written in 1851. In 1935, it became the state song of  Florida.   Flash flood warnings for Tallahassee.  By the time we got to the hotel, it had been augmented with a tornado watch.  Fortunately, we didn't see any direct affect.

Sunday morning, there were thunderstorms, which took out half the cable service in Tallahassee, including ours.  After some discussion, we decided it was worth trying to drive out to St. Marks Lighthouse in the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, where there are a lot of hiking trails, including the Florida Scenic Hiking Trail, which goes through the refuge.
Pine and Palmettos
There were a few times when it looked like huge buckets of rain were being dumped down, but we perservered.  By the time we got to the lighthouse, it was raining lightly, so John dug out a light plastic poncho (which we have rarely, if ever, used) to at least have a place to hide the camera.
St. Marks Lighthouse
  We got lucky as the rain stopped shortly.  We did about a mile walk around the Lighthouse Pool.  We saw cormorants, pelicans, snowy egrets, various ducks, herons which we spooked.  On the drive back to the visitor center, we saw some bufflehead ducks, an antlered deer.
Cormorants

Pelicans in flight
Pelican preening
Heron
St. Marks Lighthouse
Deer
We also saw signs warning about bears, but we didn't see any of them.  The visitor center gift shop had a good selection of wildlife themed t-shirts. Joan picked up a nice one with a cougar, alligator, egret and eagles.   North of the visitor center, we saw 3 more deer, probably a doe and two young ones.  
Then we drove southwest to the small towns of Panacea and Sopchoppy, just due to their rather unique names, before returning to Tallahassee.
In the evening, there was another thunderstorm.  One particularly loud strike resulted in a power outage.  An hour or so later, the power came back on.

Monday morning turned out to be reasonably clear, as we headed west. We were surprised to see more huge solar fields along the way.  We don't think of north Florida as sunny.  We started seeing lots of broken trees along the highway, interestingly most of them broken halfway up the trunk. 
Trees broken by hurricane Michael
.Remnants of hurricane Michael.  On the east side of Mobile Bay, we stopped at a Rand McNalley Editors historic pick called Spanish Fort Overlook.   During the revolutionary war, France, Spain, Britain and the USA were interested in this area.  The Spanish captured Mobile, and built a fort here to protect the area from the British in Pensacola. The British attacked the fort, but were held off by the Spanish.   A few months later, the Spanish took Pensacola, which expelled the British from the Gulf Coast.   Then we crossed the bay to Mobile, going through another tunnel. 
Mobile, Alabama skyline
40 miles west of Mobile, just across the border into Mississippi, we arrived at our next hotel in Moss Point.

Tuesday, we drove out to the Grand Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve.   We were surprised to see eagles nests on the big power lines. 
Eagles nest
The highlight was the visitor center with descriptions of how an estuary mixing fresh water and salt water creates biodiversity.  It covered the history of European impact on the area.  Before Europeans, the savanna covered 3/4 of the Southeastern Coastal Plain.  Now, they cover only 5%.  They had a Mississippi diamondback terrapin named Tobi in the visitor center.
Tobi the diamondback terrapin


We were disappointed in the hiking.  We did a 1000 foot walk along a boardwalk at the center. Further south, we did a half mile loop on a birding trail. 
tree along birding trail
We heard a couple of birds but didn't see any, which was surprising, because when we drove past earlier, we saw a red bird flying into a bush. 
When we returned to town, we headed to a shopping mall about 15 miles west in Gautier.  It used to have 3 department stores,  Sears, JC Penney and Belk.  The only one left was Belk.  The mall was demolished, except for the one store in 2014 to prepare for a new development. The only evidence there had been other stores was the amount of parking.  The buildings were gone.  We were done early enough to go to the Ruby Tuesday restaurant next to our hotel for lunch.  It had an extensive salad bar for Joan, and John enjoyed a nice steak.  This was our first visit to this chain.

Wednesday morning, we planned a roadside attraction trip from Moss Point to Baton Rouge, since it is only about 2.5 hour trip.
We added an extra stop almost immediately, as we saw the directions to the Mississippi Sandhill Crane National Wildlife Refuge https://www.fws.gov/refuge/mississippi_sandhill_crane/.  We arrived before the visitor center opened, so did the 3/4 mile loop through the savanna, along an edge overlooking a marsh.  They had lots of little signs along the way identifying various flowering plants.  Few of them were open, as it was just above freezing (there was a good layer of frost on the truck windshield that pretty much melted by the time we left).  Unfortunately no sandhill cranes, and few other birds.
longleaf pine tree in sapling stage
A lot of the roadside attractions were along the coast west of us from Ocean Springs through Biloxi, Long Beach.  The first one was the 'crooked feather Indian head'.
Crooked Feather

Then the Hurricane Katrina Memorial  in Biloxi, showing the height of the tidal surge.  We had a bit of trouble finding this, as the address on the roadside website was about a block further away from the beach. 
Hurricane Katrina Memorial
Nice long white sand beach all the way along the coast through this area.  Beautiful old houses facing the Gulf.  Lots of historic plaques along the road.    

We missed the 'big pig on a station wagon' , but couldn't be bothered to return to it, but had seen the  32 foot high shark head entrance on the way by.
giant shark's head
The next stop was Beauvoir, the home of Jefferson Davis, president of the Confederate States.  We just took a few pictures there. 
Beaurevoir - Jefferson Davis home

In Long Beach, we found the Friendship Oak tree on the campus of University of Southern Mississippi Gulf Park.   It is over 500 years old.  The legend is that 'those who enter my shadow are supposed to remain friends through their lifetime' no matter where fate may take them in after years.
Friendship Tree

There was a long strip of white sand beach along the Mississippi state section of the gulf coast.
white sand beaches
From there, we crossed into Louisianna at Slidell.  This was the furthest attraction from our route, and the least attractive of them.  It was located in an abandoned service station, which did give us room to pull off for photos.  
catfish
On our drive through Slidell, we followed a mini-van with the worst shock absorbers we have ever noticed.  Every time it hit a bump in the road, the back end would bounce high, and then continue bouncing for at least half a block after a good bump.  Wouldn't have wanted to be the seasick kid riding in the back of that van.


Our next stop was the Ronald Regan statue north of I-12 in Covington. We only had a rough address there, so had to check the instructions in detail to find it. .  There was a group of musicians jamming in the bandshell in the corner of the park, with the statue facing them. 
Ronald Reagan statue
Our last attraction for the day was in the center of the town of Pontchatoula.  An alligator called 'Old Hardhide' is in a fine wired cage.   The first 'Ole Hardhide' was blind in one eye.  When it died in 1985 thousands of people gathered in the area to pay tribute. His coffin was carried on a horse-drawn wagon to his resting place south of the city.  There have been several gators over the years since then.
Ole Hardsides
We finally arrived at our hotel on the east side of Baton Rouge about 3:00, having taken about 7 hours to do the 2.5 hour route between the two hotels.

Thursday, we drove to the Mississippi River south of downtown Baton Rouge to do a hike, but couldn't find the parking area for a 1.5 mile loop along the river.   Where we thought the trailhead was located, there was a sign saying 'no motorized vehicles'.  It turned out we had gone past the turn to the parking lot (which we didn't discover until we looked at the info when we arrived at our next hotel).


We headed west toward the Atchafalaya National Wildlife Refuge.  We set the GPS to go to a little town at the north end of the Refuge. After going past a couple of exits, it directed us onto the road through the refuge, along the Atchafalaya River.  We had suspected it might be gravel, but we have the have the gps set to avoid dirt roads, so we figured we would have a paved road.  It turned out to be what looked like it used to be paved, but was broken down to gravel.   The road went past a lot of 'camps' along the river.  We got a few glimpses through them to the river.   Further on, there was a levee between the road and the river, so we didn't get to see anything special.   About 5 miles out of the 17 across to the next highway, the gps warned us that there was 3.4 miles of dirt road on the route.  So much for avoiding dirt roads.   The road was pretty consistent all the way through, dusty, a bit narrow, but we did meet a few trucks of hunters along the way without incident.  About halfway across we came to a camping area on top of the levee with several tents in it.  There were permits for camping that listed the animals that could be hunted.  There was also a warning that bears look a lot like boars at a distance.  Bears are protected in Louisianna.

 Once we got on highway 190 heading west, we saw an ad for  jalapeno sausage cheese bread at Bourque's Market.  We stopped there and picked up a large tart size, the smallest they had, and a pumpkin spice tart for lunch.   We carried on west on 190 until the town of Eunice.  From Eunice, we headed cross-country on several levels of local highways until we got to the town of Deridder, our stop for the day.   The area west of the Atchafalaya is more agricultural, with herds of cows and hay fields in clearings,  and some logging.   Quite different from the coastal areas we have been travelling through this week.